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Portola Ave., Palm Desert) is a great place to tiptoe into the landscape. In addition to its extensive cactus and succulent gardens, the institution has a large collection of animals, including giraffes, camels and bighorn sheep that roam on a steep but enclosed hillside. The institution's daily "wildlife wonders" show might include a golden eagle, a New Guinea singing dog and a long-legged African cat known as a serval. There's an epic model train setup too. Expect to spend hours here. But if your family includes indefatigable kids, you might want a next stop. That could be the Children's Discovery Museum of the Desert (71701 Gerald Ford Drive, Rancho Mirage), which has a host of hands-on activities. Don't miss the laser harp, with red light beams that take the place of vibrating strings. When day is done, repair to the massive JW Marriott Desert Springs (74-855 Country Club Drive, Palm Desert), where the water features (and two golf courses) seem to go on for miles. Yes, those are real pink flamingos near

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